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1.15.2023

the rock (and one hard place)

From the Algarve, our family drove through Spain to Gibraltar. The big boys helped plan this part of the trip, having been the ones to request we consider a jaunt to see pickpocket monkeys, researching things like accommodations, restaurants and hiking trails. At one point, about a week before the trip and with a newfound appreciation for the logistics of travel, Tucker asked if we had prepared a Plan B.
We stayed in a seaside apartment along Catalan Bay, and enjoyed collecting shells and sea glass - Hank's pockets filled to treasure chest levels both evenings. We spent an entire day in the upper rock nature reserve, riding the cable car to the top and meandering miles and miles on the descent, through fields of paperwhites and throngs of macaques. Although not aggressive, the monkeys did seem to take advantage of opportunity, so our bags were zipped tight and our eyes alert - we saw several primates lounging with cans of Pringles and plastic water bottles and loaves of bread. We witnessed one macaque steal a tin Pokemon box from a small boy; Tolliver hoped it would pry open the pail and offer a trade! The most impressive attraction for us may have been St. Michael's Cave, the spectacularly massive chamber of ancient limestone formations felt truly cathedral-like. The boys also enjoyed investigating the great siege tunnels, learning about the hollow mountain's centuries-long military defensive role.

After thorough immersion in the riddles of the rock, we spent one day in Seville on our way back to Portugal. We admired the architecture of Plaza de Espana, the island of ducks and shady footpaths and fountains in Maria Luisa park, and devoured seafood paella on a quiet patio near the Cathedral (and the tomb of Christopher Columbus). It was here that we realized Hank had designated himself official photographer of pigeons. And at some point we sensed a crowd gathering, in addition to police presence, as we walked back toward the parking garage to our rental car, and realized that all the roads had been closed.  The city's Epiphany parade, the news later reported, attracted 900,000 people. Our hearts pounded as we tried to sort out what to do, trapped hours from our overnight accommodations. Turns out google translate plus a very festive atmosphere plus tons of parade candy for dinner led us from a really fertile catastrophic imagination and ferociously fragile emotions toward what wound up being a manageable, very memorable situation. 

Turns out, in fact, inconvenience may force attention. It forces effort and it often forces people together. During the two week trip, our family navigated things like missed connections and language fails, food crises and wet clothes, meeting each moment with varied capacities and temperaments, with lots of ice cream and an occasional cuss word. Through traveling, though, we are reminded that things don't actually have to go right to go well.

5 comments:

  1. Meg just shared your blog with me and it’s so great. Is there a way to subscribe and get email updates when you post?

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  2. I can not pick a favorite among these glimpses of your adventure. I am wondering how the boys unconsciously arrange all their atoms so that they appear curious and engaged... especially when they are not posing for a picture. I think it might be their natural state!

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  3. Jenny Baby,
    It is wonderful that modern technology will allow the boys to be able to review these awesome pictures in 75 years and revisit these memories!
    So proud of you and Andy!

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  4. What a wonderful, beautiful, GRAND adventure!!

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